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HomeMy WebLinkAboutCrepe Myrtles articlesSto P.1 • Just because your neighbors butcher their crepe myrtles doesn't mean you .ar should too. Here's how to fix past mistakes and prune them right. 58 SOUTHERN LIVING ach Saturday morning after football season ends, legions of bored men armed with saws and loppers emerge from their garages to commit "crepe murder." They needlessly reduce majestic crepe myrtles to ugly stumps—in many cases, ruining them forever. In South Carolina, the Spartanburg Men's Garden Club is working to end the slaughter. Last year, one of its members, Henry Pittman, sent me a copy of the club's excellent brochure, "Crape Myrtles: Four Seasons of Beauty" (yes, I know—they spell it with an "a"). It covers all aspects of selecting, growing, and pruning crepe myrtles. We thought so highly of its advice that we visited Spartanburg to see firsthand what they were talking about so we could tell you. O The crepe myrtle at left had been rounded off the previous year. Horticulturist Stewart Winslow prepares to fix it. Lofty Goals The objectives of pruning a crepe myr- tle are to maintain its natural sculptur- al form, produce strong branches that hold flowers upright, and open up its c'�i�► center to reveal the smooth, multi - toned bark that forms on mature trunks and branches. Cutting it back to thick stubs each year makes these goals impossible. A graceful tree quickly becomes a fence - post or hat rack. Pretty bark never appears. Each beheaded trunk grows a Medusa -like tangle of spindly whips too weak to hold up flowers. ® He thins out the twiggy growth and ciusered stubs, leaving one or two shoots at the end of each limb. ® Soon these shoots will be as thick as the nicely spaced limbs below them, becoming new main branches. The Right Way To Prune • Cut back to another branch, to just above an outward - For a beautiful plant, follow these guidelines. facing bud on a branch, or to the branch collar (a swollen • Prune in late winter. February is ideal. area where the branch joins the trunk). Never leave lone or • Remove suckers at the base, crossing or rubbing branches, clustered stubs. and branches growing inward toward the center of the plant. *Try to remove unwanted branches before they get thicker • As the tree grows, gradually remove all side branches from than a pencil. the main trunks up to a height of 5 feet or so. • It's okay but unnecessary to cut off old seedheads. ► FEBRUARY 2007 59 Restoring a Butchered Plant If you've beheaded a big crepe myrtle to within a few feet of the ground (see photo below), there's only one solution. Punish yourself severely by watching Nancy Grace on TV, and then cut the sorry plant completely to the ground. It will grow back very quickly. The next winter, select three to five well -spaced trunks, and cut off any others at ground level. Follow the pruning instructions on the bottom of page 59, and you'll have an attractive tree within five years. But maybe your sin wasn't so acute. You've only round- ed off, or "hat -racked," your crepe myrtle, cutting back all of its main branches to about the same height. In this case, follow the four -step process beginning on page 59 to get beautiful plants such as those shown on page 58. Finally, a word to you ladies. The minute football season ends next year, treat the man of the house to a tractor pull, a paintball tournament, or a game of X-treme welding. Don't let him near the saws and loppers. Don't Do This! O During the first summer of restoration, the plant often grows more flowers than it can support. Stewart removes the weakest branches and opens up the center. /c/f: You'll never see this beautiful bark if you chop down your tree each spring. Excuses for Crepe Murder Excuse: My neighbors all do it. Rebuttal: So if the 'r;i E ors Start keening Nile croco- ci les in `heir s)ools �Juj n be on the next p; ane to Africa' Excuse: The landscapers do it every winter. Rebuttal. ­d;net;' need a i?a rChe6:. Excuse: The dang thing gets too big. Rebuttal: `)c- ,v!'Oc gene;yrFie. 'Acoma,"Nopi ` `Tont, r c t to _ .:es t r� P v t0 C feE:..dl or it - k- For More Info Download the crepe myrtle brochure: southern living.comlfebruary2007 60 SOUTHERN LIVING Cutting big crepe myrtles into "fenceposts" produces wild, weak growth and ruins their form. The only penance for this crime? Cut them back to the ground in winter, and start all over. Violets r _&ftom don't s too ywa wcald Me to bane some per.. ty wildflowers in tke In koklis though Highway i. portation 'new ♦e�' . - program #P.it1 rel elle Nrd's paot ViaLat ' V-Qi$tA) seem to an ideal flower to tyy. It blooms€ early ;`,�padi to Ilr)r is 6 Heber tail anis sev- iral different shades of rltalaL In buWHibuy e iiuGh do I use quare favi t4 ve 4000 square fret of AL Let me give you a ew words of warning. Me the violets are very ttractive flowers in the piing, they beep their fo- iage most of the growing eason. This foliage would xterfere with your zoysia. It violets also spread easi- r, every year, I get calls mL m people ash how to et rid of the violets, which ren't easily killed. Crocuses are another op - un for early spring color. 's too late to p14 -,it the bulbs { uaiv, but you could'plant tthe fall. They get g early in the year; wonderfW yellow, pur- or white blooms, and r life cycle is complete �y the time you need to mow the grass for the first time. Q= The bugs I or- dered arrived ° late in never Insanes them. They Detre been in MY cold and I was waan If it is too late arkanaos MW to plats them. I Dater hate to see theui go to cawft$ lCt waste. DAVIDSM A. By all means, plant. Hopefully, your garage is cool enough to have given them some chilling hours. Bulbs need a minimum of 12 weeks of tem- peratures between 38 to 45 degrees before they can fully mature. Even if they don't reach maximum potential, they will come up and bloom. i #Nvou Tar Fitt them, you will have wast- t3xouey they will e fore rxe season. !4 t A. This is probably the No.1 question I get in the newspaper and on the radio. There are thousands of crape mp tles varieties witIV A vari- ety of eventual Heights. If you own a standard crape myrtle that hu_the Potential to become a thee, lei it° grow and become a tree. They need, shaping from time to time, but se- vere pruning keeps them from ma- turing. Dwarf or miniature crape myrtles need shearing each year to keep , them looking attractive.dacape spur- der" — shearing the standards back to 3 or 4 feet -- makes them groin rapidly each and pro flowers, but is larger on weak newgrowth make the plants top-heavy. Every time it rains. they flop over, and drag the groii Q, Then are three willow the entrance to our neigbbc�d They are Wanted In a naedi>en grass does not grow well uhd these trees. I it is becum o M. 11 cd X - cif soft bythe See CARSON on Page 6E UfA U! 'MJF ARKANSAS DIVISION OF AGRICULTURE Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia) Cultivars The crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia sp.), native to SE Asia, is a very popular woody ornamental flowering shrub/small tree throughout southeastern US landscapes. The fact that crapemyrtles have the potential for a long flowering period (up to 120 days) in the summer has given rise to the popularity of this plant. Today we are fortunate to be able to pick from a wide variety of cultivars that offer us an assortment of ornamental characteristics. Breeding programs in USA and Europe have generated, in the last three decades, a wide range of plant sizes (from 2' dwarfs to 30' tall trees), growth habits (broad, upright, weeping, etc..), cold hardiness (Zones 6-10), disease resistance (powdery mildew and leaf spot) and a wide range of bark characteristics, flower color and is+11 color. Out of all the Lagerstroemia species, L. indica is the most widely know and cultivated. Breeding programs utilize other species including L. fauriei and L. speciosa. The rather obscure and perhaps nearly extinct L. fauriei, found only in the island of Yakushima, Japan has brought the most significant developments in the breeding of modern ornamental Lagerstroemia cultivars, contributing mainly with powdery mildew resistance, cold hardiness and attractive bark. Many cultivars have been introduced by the U.S. National Arboretum (http://www.usna.usda.gov/ ) including: `Pocomoke', `Acoma', `Caddo', `Hopi', `Tonto', `Cherokee', `Osage', `Sioux', `Tuskegee', `Tuscarora', `Biloxi', `Kiowa', `Miami', and `Natchez'. Introductions by the University of Arkansas include: `Centennial', `Hope', and `Victor'. Pruning: Dehorning (or toppin-) is, sadly, a widespread pruning practice applied to many crapemyrtles. Fortunately the plant can withstand such abuse. Proper selection of the right cultivar (i.e. size and growth habit) should take priority over improper pruning if this is justified by space considerations. Contrary to popular beliefs, excessive pruning in crapemyrtles does not induce heavier flowering, but rather detracts from having it due to the likely removal of significant plant carbon and nutrient (i.e. food) reserves. Proper pruning of the shrub or tree types includes selectively removing branches back to a branch (thinning). Crapemyrtle flowers on new stems/wood so plants can be pruned until late spring without reducing flowering that summer. Diseases: There are two serious and common fungal diseases on crapemyrtle: pm� derN mildew (Erysiphe lagerstroemiae) and Cercospora leaf spot. In Arkansas, the more serious disease is leaf spot which can cause susceptible varieties to be nearly defoliated by late August. While chemical controls could be used, we encourage planting varieties that are less susceptible to both of these diseases. A good fact sheet on the two diseases is available: http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1047/ANR-1047.pdf Insects: Although metallic green flea beetle (Altica sp.) is noted as a serious insect pest in many southeastern states it does not appear to be a serious problem on crapemyrtle in Arkansas yet. Arkansas is fortunate to have two individuals that I credit with introducing this fine plant to our state in the 70's. Recognition needs to go to Ewa and Joan Nelson of Morningside Nursery (www.morningsidenursery.com) in Morrilton and Stan Brown of Blossomberry Nursery in Russellville. Other information: http://dallas.tamu.edu/woody/cmyrtle/ University of Arkansas, United States Department of Agriculture, and County Governments Cooperating. The Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, religion, gender, age, disability, marital or veteran status, or any other legally protected status, and is an Equal Opportunity Employer. U� UNIVERSITY OF ARKANSAS DIVISION OF AGRICULTURE Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia) Cultivars Page 1 Cultivars with Height Greater than 24 Feet Cultivar Flower Size/habit Parentage Exfoliating Susceptibility Susceptibility Color Bark x to to Powdery Leaf Spot Y Fall Color Mildew Basham's Party lavender - Pink pink (photo not 307broad tree hybrid good R R available) Biloxi light lk pink 28'x 14' hybrid exceptional R MS orange red Byer's Standard Red soft red 25'/upright (photo not indica fair Ms MS available) orange vase Fantas white 25'/upright fauriei exceptional VR VR vase Kiowa AN .. white 25'x 23 fauriei exceptional - VR Miami dark pink 24'x 14' hybrid exceptional VR Ms orange Page 2 Muskocge light lavender 25'x 20' hybrid fair R MS w red orange Natchez white F e.: *�° red 28'x 25' hybrid exceptional VR R ,h orange Townhouse white (photo not 257 upright fauriei exceptional R R available) vase X Bark scale exceptional, great, good, fair Y Powdery mildew (fungus) susceptibility: VS=very susceptible, S=susc., MS=moderately susc., R=resistant, VR=very resistant Z Cercospora (fungus) leaf spot susceptibility: VS=very susceptible, S=susc., MS=moderately susc., R=resistant, VR=very resistant Dr. Jim Robbins — University of Arkansas, Division of Agriculture; 11/21/04 My sincere THANKS to Ewa Nelson (Morningside Nursery — Morrilton, AR) and Stan Brown (Blossomberry Nursery — Clarksville, AR) University of Arkansas, United States Department of Agriculture, and County Governments Cooperating. The Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, religion, gender, age, disability, marital or veteran status, or any other legally protected status, and is an Equal Opportunity Employer. SouthernLiving.com Page 1 of 2 Back I Print a 4 Crepe Murder A terrible crime that only you can stop is sweeping the garden. Some call it pruning. We call it ... Crepe Murder. Styles come and go. Some are timeless, while others beg to be forgotten. So it is with crepe myrtles and the current trend of lopping off their tops. Remember crew cuts? They're out. Natural forms are in. The satin -smooth bark and sinewy trunks of a graceful crepe myrtle make a statement in the winter garden. But amputated, knuckled, and disfigured branches mar the tree's outline, just when it should be an asset. Crepe myrtles need pruning. If done correctly, the pruning goes unnoticed. Think of it as training. By enhancing the natural habit of the tree, you guide your crepe myrtle into a form that is both handsome and easy to maintain. ORDER IN THE CUT Removing Limbs shallow cut under the limb prevents tearing the bark as the limb falls. the limb off by sawing down from the top at a point several inches beyond the initial cut. Cut ALIBIS FOR CREPE MURDER My neighbors pruned theirs. Improper pruning is a copycat crime. Each tree has a different form, and its role varies from one landscape to the next. Therefore, you need to figure out why you are pruning before you cut a branch. It's getting too big. If your tree is too tall, then you have the wrong one. Pruning to reduce its height will only create a maintenance battle that you will never win. Fortunately, even large crepe myrtles can be transplanted with success. Replace yours with a different kind of plant or a shorter selection of crepe myrtle. Acoma, Catawba, Cherokee, Comanche, Hopi, and Sioux are a few of the semidwarf forms that reach 8 to 14 feet in height in about 10 years. If you want a shrub, try Centennial, Victor, Prairie Lace, or Hope; these grow 3 to 4 feet tall. Natchez, Muskogee, Fantasy, Dallas Red, Byers Wonderful White, Watermelon Red, and Biloxi all grow at least 20 feet, so plant them where their height will be an asset. If I don't prune my tree, it won't bloom. Pruning will not inspire flowering; it will just bring the flowers down to where you can see them. Often, trees that fail to bloom are growing under too much shade, so move them to the sun. It looks scraggly. Crepe myrtles naturally send up new shoots called suckers from their base. While multitrunk trees are handsome, too many trunks can appear unkempt. Use hand clippers to cut off all unwanted suckers at the surface of the soil. Now is a good time. I'm just shaping it up. Don't cut to see over them, cut to see through them. Remove limbs from the inside of the tree, especially limbs that cross or hang so low that they hit you in http://www.southemliving.com/southern/printerfriendly/0, 14260,455545,00.htm1 2/23/2007 SouthernLiving.com last cut removes any stub that remains, leaving a smooth-edged wound that will heal without a dressing. Page 2 of 2 the face. Remove entire limbs flush with the trunk as shown in Order in the Cut box. If you leave a stub, four or five new shoots will grow in place of the one you removed. MAKING REPARATIONS If your tree has been damaged by improper pruning, you can restore it. Cuts on young limbs (2 inches or less in diameter) can be repaired as shown in Reform School box. But larger limbs that have been lopped off or repeatedly pruned so that they have developed a knuckle need to be removed entirely. Trees that have been cut back to trunks 4 or 5 inches in diameter will never look natural again. These need to be cut flush to the ground so new trunks can be trained to replace the old. REFORM SCHOOL Fixing Pruning Mistakes 1. A stub left by an improper cut last year allowed two shoots to grow in place of the one that was removed. 3 , 3. Then remove the stub. \ �4 I IF, i 2. To restore the proper form, remove one of the two shoots. 4. The result should be a cut that will heal into a single branch. Although this may seem drastic, you can have a new tree in only two or three years because the established root system will support rapid growth. When new shoots appear, select the ones that are strong and well placed. Remove all others. You may have to remove suckers several times during the growing season, and you may have to support the long, limber shoots with stakes during the first year. But be patient and train your tree into a natural form. It will be a beauty once again. © Copyright Southern Progress Corporation, 2006. All rights reserved. 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